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Amana fridge ice maker not working: what to check first

You may have an empty ice bin, small hollow cubes, or ice in the bin that won't come through the door. This guide helps you sort out a simple setup or water-flow problem from a part failure that needs testing.

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Straight answer

An Amana fridge ice maker not working means the ice maker is off, too warm to cycle, unable to fill, or unable to dump the cubes it already made. A common cause Amana calls out is the ice maker being turned off by the arm, paddle, or switch.

Check these first

Safe to do yourself. Unplug the appliance before you start.

  1. Make sure the ice maker is on

    Check the wire shutoff arm, paddle, or on/off switch for your model. The arm or paddle should be able to move, and the bin needs to sit directly under the ice maker. Amana lists an accidentally turned-off ice maker as a common reason for no ice.

  2. Reset it once

    If your ice maker has a reset button, press and hold it for a few seconds. If it doesn't, unplug the refrigerator for 1 minute, then plug it back in. Wait a couple of hours before judging the result.

  3. Check the freezer temperature

    Use a refrigerator thermometer in the freezer, near the ice maker area. The normal target is 0 to 5 degrees F, and ice production can drop off when the freezer gets above 10 degrees F. If ice cream is soft, fix the cooling problem first.

  4. Check the filter and water flow

    A clogged or poorly seated filter can cut water flow to the ice maker. Amana recommends changing the filter every 6 months, when the indicator comes on, or sooner if flow slows. If the door water is weak or sputters after a filter change, reseat or replace the filter and flush the water system per the filter instructions.

  5. Look for a kinked or restricted supply line

    Pull the refrigerator out only as far as the water line allows. Look for a pinched 1/4 inch copper or PEX line behind the cabinet, and make sure the household shutoff valve is open. Self-piercing saddle valves and small saddle valves clog easily, so they can cause slow fill or no fill.

  6. Tell making ice from dispensing ice

    If ice is in the bin but won't come through the door, check that Ice is selected, Control Lock is off, and the chute isn't packed with ice. Clean the chute with a warm damp cloth, then dry it. That's a dispenser problem, not a no-ice problem.

Refrigerator side view: water line from the wall valve to the inlet valve, filter, ice maker fill tube and door dispenserWater filter (location varies)Inlet valve (lower back)Shutoff at the wallIce maker fill tubeDispenser
Water enters through a valve on the lower back and passes the filter. One line feeds the ice maker's fill tube; another runs up through the door hinge to the dispenser. Filter location varies by model.
Have the model number ready

The company will ask for it first. It's on a sticker or metal plate, usually in one of these spots:

Where the model tag usually is on a refrigerator12
  1. Inside the fresh-food section, on a side wall near the top
  2. Some models: on the ceiling or behind the crisper drawer
Worth knowing

Conditions that make this more likely

Inlet screens clog quietly

The small mesh screens where the hoses meet the machine catch sediment and scale. On hard water or an older supply line, a screen can block enough within a few years to trigger a fill error. Cleaning them is a common fix.

Hard water makes this more likely

Water above about 7 grains per gallon counts as hard, and USGS maps put much of the Southwest, Texas, the Great Plains and the Midwest above that. Scale builds up on inlet screens, valves, heating elements and spray arms years sooner than the manuals assume. If you're on hard water and this fault points to a fill or heating part, mineral buildup is the first thing a technician will look for.

Boards fail earlier in hot rooms

Electronics are rated for room temperature. In a garage or an unconditioned laundry room in summer, a control board can sit well above that for hours a day. Before replacing a board, a good technician confirms the parts it controls test good, since a shorted pump or valve can take out a new board too.

What a technician tests

Most likely part first. These are for a technician with a meter and the tech sheet, not a weekend project.

PartHow it's tested
Water inlet valveVerify household pressure meets the model's spec, commonly 30 to 120 psi at the refrigerator connection, then check for power at the ice-maker fill coil during the fill part of harvest. If pressure and voltage are present but no water enters the mold, the valve is restricted or failed; scale on the inlet screen is a common tell.
Freezer temperature and airflowMeasure actual freezer temperature at the ice maker area, not just the control setting. The freezer should be 0 to 5 degrees F, and operation becomes poor above 10 degrees F; frost-heavy vents, a stalled fan, or a leaking door gasket point to a cooling issue before any ice maker part is replaced.
Ice maker assemblyOn Whirlpool-built modular ice makers, a technician may force a harvest from the module test points, often marked T and H, then watch for motor rotation, heater action, and fill at the end of the cycle. If it runs and fills only when forced, the internal thermostat or module is suspect; if it starts but won't release cubes, the heater or drive parts are suspect, so the assembly is commonly replaced.
Fill tube and fill hoseInspect the tube that feeds the mold for an ice plug or a cracked fill hose. A frozen fill tube usually means low water pressure, a seeping inlet valve, or a fill-tube heater fault on models that use one; thawing it without fixing the cause often leads to a repeat call.
Control board, ice level control, and door switchCheck the wiring diagram, then verify voltage is being sent to the ice maker and inspect the board for burned spots. On optical ice-level models, the test is model-specific: a technician checks the emitter flapper and status light per the tech sheet. A failed door switch can also stop dispensing on models that route dispenser power through it.

Don't see your symptom?

Describe it on the phone. The company on the other end works on these every day and will know what to ask.

Call to be connected(888) 280-5160

Common questions about appliance repair

How do I reset an Amana refrigerator ice maker?

Use the reset button if your ice maker has one. If it doesn't, unplug the refrigerator for 1 minute, plug it back in, then wait a couple of hours to see whether a new batch starts.

Why does the water dispenser work but the ice maker doesn't?

The dispenser working proves some water is reaching the refrigerator. It doesn't prove the ice-maker side of the inlet valve is opening, the fill tube is clear, or the ice maker is calling for water.

What freezer temperature does an Amana ice maker need?

Set the freezer for 0 to 5 degrees F and confirm it with a thermometer. If the freezer is above 10 degrees F, ice production can slow down or stop.

Can a water filter stop an Amana ice maker?

Yes. A clogged, wrong, or poorly seated filter can reduce flow enough to cause small cubes, hollow cubes, or no ice. Amana recommends filter replacement every 6 months, when the indicator comes on, or as water quality requires.

Should the ice maker or water valve be replaced first?

If the mold is dry, a technician checks pressure, the filter, the fill tube, and the inlet valve before replacing the ice maker. If the mold fills but the cubes never dump, the ice maker assembly is more likely.

Still showing the problem after the checks?

Call and describe what you tried. You'll be connected with an independent repair company near you.

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