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Frigidaire dryer not heating: what it means and what to check

Your Frigidaire dryer may run, tumble, and count down like normal, while the clothes stay cold or damp. This page walks through the safe checks you can do first, then shows what a technician tests inside the dryer.

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Straight answer

A Frigidaire dryer not heating means the heater circuit or gas burner is not making usable heat while the motor can still run. On electric models, a common simple cause is one lost side of the 208 to 240 volt supply, so the drum may turn on 120 volts while the heater never gets full power.

Check these first

Safe to do yourself. Unplug the appliance before you start.

  1. Check the cycle and temperature

    Make sure the dryer is not set to Air Fluff, No Heat, or a temperature choice that tumbles without heat. It sounds too simple, but this is the first thing to rule out before moving the dryer.

  2. Reset both dryer breaker handles

    Electric Frigidaire dryers use two house circuits or fuses. Turn the dryer breaker fully off, then back on; if one side had tripped, the motor can run while the heater stays off.

  3. Look at the lint screen and outside vent

    Clean the lint screen, then run the dryer and check for strong airflow outside. If the dryer is warm but clothes take multiple cycles, a lint restriction is more likely than a dead heater.

  4. Check gas supply on gas models

    On a gas model, don't open fittings or relight anything. If you smell gas, leave the area and call the gas supplier. If the shutoff valve appears closed, LP is out, or service was interrupted, contact the supplier or a qualified technician.

  5. Give a gas dryer room to breathe

    Laundry, rugs, or storage pressed against the front or back can block the air the burner needs. Clear the area around the dryer, then try a timed heat cycle.

  6. Stop if the breaker trips again

    A breaker that trips again points to a power, cord, outlet, terminal block, or heater short. Have a qualified electrician or a repair company check it rather than running more loads.

Side view of a dryer venting through a transition hose and wall duct to an outside flapLint screenTransition hose: crush pointWallOutside flap
Air leaves through the lint screen, the transition hose and the wall duct to the outside flap. A crushed hose or packed duct causes most heat and long-dry problems.
Side view of a gas dryer: shutoff valve on the supply pipe behind it, flexible connector, burner behind the lower panelGas shutoff valveFlexible connectorBurner and igniter (technician)
On a gas dryer, the shutoff valve on the pipe behind it is open when the handle lines up with the pipe. The burner, igniter and flame sensor sit behind a lower panel and are a technician's job. If you smell gas, leave the house and call the gas utility from outside.
When it's a repair

A technician usually checks house power first, then tests the heating element or heating canister, thermal limiter, high limit thermostat, and the model-specific thermistor before replacing parts. The control board is later in the list unless the board is scorched or the heater relay is not sending power after every safety device tests good; a gas model adds burner checks after the gas supply is confirmed. If the dryer is older, rusty, or needs a board plus heat parts, replacement starts to make more sense than repair.

Models where this shows up most

This fault is common on Frigidaire and Electrolux stackable front-load dryers, including Affinity style units. Some Kenmore, Gibson, Westinghouse, Crosley, Tappan, Kelvinator, and Montgomery Ward dryers use Frigidaire or Electrolux style heat parts, so the full model tag matters.

Error code lists

Every Frigidaire dryer error code in one table, with what each means and what to check first →

Have the model number ready

The company will ask for it first. It's on a sticker or metal plate, usually in one of these spots:

Where the model tag usually is on a dryer12
  1. Inside the door opening, on the frame
  2. Some models: on the back panel
Worth knowing

Conditions that make this more likely

Check both breakers

Electric dryers and ranges run on a double 240V breaker. If only one leg trips, the drum can spin or the display can light with no heat. Reset both halves before assuming the appliance has failed.

Lint and dust build up faster than you'd think

Dryer vents, refrigerator condenser coils and dishwasher filters collect lint, pet hair and dust. Homes with pets, long vent runs or dusty surroundings usually need these cleaned more than once a year.

What a technician tests

Most likely part first. These are for a technician with a meter and the tech sheet, not a weekend project.

PartHow it's tested
Incoming power and terminal blockWith the rear terminal cover removed, a technician checks for a burned cord lug or blackened terminal block. Live voltage should read 120 volts from center to left, 120 volts from center to right, and about 208 to 240 volts from left to right; a low leg points to the breaker, outlet, cord, or terminal block.
Thermal limiter or thermal fuseWith the dryer unplugged, any limiter on the heater canister and any fuse or limiter on the blower or vent outlet are checked for continuity. An open safety device stops heat, and the tech also looks for the lint or vent restriction that made it open.
Heating element or canisterThe element is checked for continuity through the coil, then inspected for a broken coil or a coil touching the metal housing. On some Frigidaire and Electrolux dryers, an E64 fault points to an open heater circuit, so the element, wiring, power, and safeties still get checked.
Outlet or control thermistorThe thermistor on the blower housing or outlet duct is unplugged and tested against the model's tech sheet at room temperature. Frigidaire values vary by model, so the tech uses the wiring sheet and exact part number instead of assuming one universal ohm reading.
Control board heater relayIf power, element, fuses, thermostats, thermistor, wiring, and any motor centrifugal heat switch pass, the tech inspects the board for heat damage and checks heater output during a heat call. No output with valid inputs points to a failed board or relay.

Don't see your symptom?

Describe it on the phone. The company on the other end works on these every day and will know what to ask.

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Common questions about appliance repair

Can I reset a Frigidaire dryer that is not heating?

You can reset the house breaker by turning it fully off, then back on. That only helps when one side of the 240 volt supply was lost; it will not fix a bad element, fuse, sensor, or board.

Why does my Frigidaire dryer run but not heat?

The motor can run on one side of the electric supply, while the heater needs the full 240 volts. If power is good, the usual internal checks are the thermal limiter, heating element, thermostat, thermistor, and control board.

What if the dryer gets warm but clothes are still wet?

That points more toward airflow than a total no heat failure. Clean the lint screen, check the outside vent, and look for a crushed or clogged vent hose.

Does E64 always mean the heating element is bad?

On Frigidaire and Electrolux style dryers, E64 commonly points toward the heating element circuit. A technician should still test the element, safeties, and power supply before replacing parts.

Should I check warranty before calling a repair company?

Yes. Check your product papers or the maker's owner portal before opening the dryer, since some coverage terms require authorized service.

Still showing the problem after the checks?

Call and describe what you tried. You'll be connected with an independent repair company near you.

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