Samsung washer error codes: what each one means
This table covers Samsung washer information codes sold in the US, including common digital display codes and no-display light patterns. Use the meaning to identify the system involved, then start with the safe homeowner check. Stop and contact a technician when the first check says the fault is likely internal.
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Answered by an independent appliance repair company that serves your area. Not a call center.
On digital models, codes appear on the control display; on no-display models, the washer may use blinking temperature or water level lights, such as Extra Large, Extra High, Large or High for a fill fault. To clear a code after fixing the cause, unplug the washer or switch off its breaker for 1 to 5 minutes, then restore power; do not keep clearing a code that returns. Cb or C6, CL, dn, Ur, refill detergent or softener messages, and the Self Clean LED are status messages rather than failed part faults.
The company will ask for it first. It's on a sticker or metal plate, usually in one of these spots:
- Front-load: on the door frame or inside the door rim
- Top-load: under the lid at the back, or on the back panel
Samsung washer error codes
Covers common US washer support codes and model manual groups; older displays may use E, nF, nd, dE, LE, OE, UE or similar forms, and dC, 3E, BE2 and 8E2 can mean different things by model.
31 codes
4C / 4E / nFThe washer is not getting water correctly; no-display models may blink Extra Large, Extra High, Large or High for the same fill fault. Full guide →Unplug the washer, confirm both water valves are open and the supply and drain hoses are not kinked, then restore power and try a cycle.Often a home check5C / 5E / ndThe washer is not draining at the expected speed; SE, SC and 1 5C are also used on some displays, and no-display models may blink Small or Low.Unplug the washer, let hot water cool if needed, then make sure the visible drain hose is not kinked, crushed or pushed too far into the standpipe.Often a home checkUb / Ur / UEThe load is unbalanced, and Ur means the washer is trying to rebalance itself before spin; U6 and 1U6 are also unbalance forms. Full guide →Unplug the washer, open the door only when it is unlocked, redistribute or reduce the load, then restart.Often a home checkdC / dE / dC1The main door is not detected as closed and locked; dS, d5, FL, LO, L0, dL, 1dC1 and 1dC4 are related door forms by model. Full guide →Unplug the washer, make sure laundry is not caught in the door or latch area, then close the door firmly and restart.Often a home checkLC / LE / 1CThe control detected water where it should not be or a water level sensor problem; 1E, LC1, 1 1C and 1 LC are related forms.Unplug the washer, close the water valves, and look for visible leaks or kinked hoses behind the washer.Often a home checkSUd / 5UD / SdThe washer detected too many suds and may pause until the suds settle before continuing. Full guide →Unplug the washer if you need to stop it, let suds settle, then run an empty cycle with no additives and use only HE detergent.Often a home checkOC / OE / 0CThe washer has too much water; 0E, 0C, 1 OC and 1 0C are related overflow forms.Unplug the washer and close both water valves; needs a technician if the tub is overfilled or water keeps entering because the fill valve or level system can be unsafe.Usually a technician4C2 / 4E2 / nF1The cold water supply is extremely hot because the hot and cold supply hoses are likely swapped; CE and 14C2 are related forms.Unplug the washer, turn off the water valves, and confirm the hot hose is on the hot inlet and the cold hose is on the cold inlet.Often a home checkbE2 / 6E2 / E2A control panel button is stuck or detected as continuously pressed; BE2 and 8E2 may be assigned differently on some models.Unplug the washer, gently press and release each button around its edges, then restore power.Often a home check9C1 / 9C2 / PFThe control detected irregular electrical supply or a power interruption; 2E, UC, 9E1, 9E2, 19C1 and 19C2 are related forms.Unplug the washer, remove any extension cord, and plug it into its own grounded outlet before trying again.Often a home check3C / 3E / E3The drive motor or motor control did not respond as expected; 1 3C is a related form, and 3E can be voltage on some models.Needs a technician because diagnosis is inside the drive system and control circuits.Usually a technicianAC / AE / AC6The washer electronics are not communicating correctly between boards or modules; many AC and AE numbered forms are in this group.Needs a technician because the fault is in internal wiring, controls or modules.Usually a technician8C / 8E / BCThe vibration or MEMS sensor circuit is reporting an error; BE, BE1, BE2 and BC numbered forms may be assigned here on some models.Needs a technician because the vibration sensor and wiring are internal.Usually a techniciantE / tE1 / tCThe wash temperature sensor circuit is reading out of range or not reporting correctly.Needs a technician because the sensor is internal and diagnosis requires safe electrical testing.Usually a technicianHC / HE / HE1The washer heater circuit is not operating as expected; Hr and 1 HC are related heater forms.Needs a technician because heater diagnosis involves internal wiring and controls.Usually a technicianddC / dC3The Add Door is not detected as closed and locked.Unplug the washer, make sure no clothing is caught at the Add Door latch, then close it firmly.Often a home checkSDC / 5DCThe detergent drawer is not fully closed.Unplug the washer, push the detergent drawer in until it clicks, then restore power.Often a home checkPC / PEThe clutch position was not detected correctly.Needs a technician because the clutch and position sensor are internal drive parts.Usually a technicianPC1 / PE1The clutch hall signal is missing or incorrect after the clutch position is checked.Needs a technician because the clutch hall sensor and wiring are inside the washer.Usually a technicianIE / SF / 5FThe washer control reported a system error; SF1, SF2, SF3, 5F1, 5F2, 5F3 and 1 SF are related forms.Needs a technician because the control has reported a system fault rather than a user correctable condition.Usually a technicianSr / 5rThe system relay circuit reported an error.Needs a technician because relay faults involve the control board and internal power circuits.Usually a technicianbE / 6EThe motor speed sensor signal is missing or out of range.Needs a technician because the motor speed sensor and its wiring are internal.Usually a technician9C6The control detected a high temperature circuit error.Needs a technician because the high temperature circuit is internal to the control system.Usually a technician9C7The washer detected a hardware overcurrent condition.Needs a technician because overcurrent faults can involve the control board, wiring or motor circuits.Usually a technician9C8The washer detected a software overcurrent condition.Needs a technician because the electronic control must be diagnosed safely.Usually a technician18:8JThe control reported a model option error.Needs a technician because the washer model option data must be checked through service diagnostics.Usually a technician7EThe SilverCare system reported an error on models with that feature.Needs a technician because SilverCare faults involve model-specific internal components.Usually a technicianCb / C6Calibration mode is active and is recalibrating the washer weight detection system.Remove all laundry and let Calibration run with the washer empty; use the model manual button sequence if you need to run it again.Often a home checkdnThe washer is downloading an update and the controls may not respond until it finishes.Keep the washer powered on until the download finishes; if dn stays beyond about 30 minutes with a working connection, contact a technician.Often a home checkCLChild Lock drained water from the tub after the door was opened with an unsafe water level.Turn Child Lock off or power the washer off and back on after the tub is safe.Often a home checkRefill detergent / Refill softenerThe auto dispenser detergent or softener compartment needs refilling.Unplug the washer, fill the matching auto dispenser compartment, then run the next cycle so the message can clear.Often a home checkDon't see your symptom?
Describe it on the phone. The company on the other end works on these every day and will know what to ask.
Other Samsung washer problems
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Read the fix →Common questions about appliance repair
Can I reset a Samsung washer code?
Yes, but only after you address the likely cause. Unplug the washer or switch off its breaker for 1 to 5 minutes, then restore power; if the same code returns, stop clearing it so a technician can use the stored history.
Why does the same code keep coming back?
A recurring code means the control is still seeing the condition, such as poor fill, slow drain, a leak, an unbalanced load, or an internal sensor fault. Use the first check in the table, then involve a technician if the code returns.
Why do older and newer Samsung washer codes differ?
Many newer models use C codes like 4C, 5C, LC, OC and dC, while older displays may use E or two letter forms like 4E, 5E, LE, OE, dE, nd or nF. Some labels, especially dC, 3E, BE2 and 8E2, can mean different faults by model.
What if my washer only has blinking lights?
Treat blinking lights as a code only when the washer also stops or acts wrong. Match the light pattern to the fault group and use the same safe first check.
Still showing the problem after the checks?
Call and describe what you tried. You'll be connected with an independent repair company near you.