Maytag washer error codes: what each one means
This table covers confirmed Maytag washer display codes found on front load, HE top load, Bravos, and newer top load models. Use the meaning to identify what the control detected, then start with the safe homeowner check before deciding whether a technician is needed.
A person answers Mon-Fri 9am-5pm local time. Outside those hours, leave a message and a company near you calls back.
Answered by an independent appliance repair company that serves your area. Not a call center.
Reading the code
Codes appear on the console display; no display models may blink status LEDs in a binary F then E pattern, so check the tech sheet for that model. To clear a code, press Pause or Cancel twice and Power once on many front load models, or press Start/Pause once and then Start/Pause again on many top load models; if it does not clear, unplug for 5 minutes and restart. LoC or LC, CL, dET, Detergent Low, 1h to 12h, PF, Int and Err can be status messages instead of failed parts.
Have the model number ready
The company will ask for it first. It's on a sticker or metal plate, usually in one of these spots:
- Front-load: on the door frame or inside the door rim
- Top-load: under the lid at the back, or on the back panel
Maytag washer error codes
This list covers household electronic display front load, HE top load, Bravos, and newer top load families; some F codes are model dependent.
52 codes
CodeWhat it meansCheck firstUsually
F8 E1 / LF / Lo FLThe washer is taking too long to fill or is not detecting the correct incoming water level. Full guide →Unplug the washer, confirm both water valves are fully open, check for kinked inlet hoses, and make sure the drain hose is not pushed too far into the standpipe.Often a home checkF9 E1 / F21 / LdThe washer is taking too long to drain, and older front load models may show F21 while some top load models show Ld or drn. Full guide →Unplug the washer and check that the drain hose is not kinked, clogged, sealed into the standpipe, or installed too high.Often a home checkF5 E2 / F22 / LdLThe door or lid did not lock when the washer tried to start or continue a cycle.Unplug the washer, remove items caught under the lid or around the door, close it firmly, and restart the cycle.Often a home checkF5 E3 / LdU / dUThe door or lid did not unlock when the control expected it to unlock.Unplug the washer, remove anything sitting on the lid or pressing on the door, then power the washer back on after 5 minutes.Often a home checkLoC / LCControl lock is on, so the console will not accept normal button presses.Press and hold the Control Lock button or the paired control lock key for about 3 seconds.Often a home checkSud / Sd / F0 E2The washer detected too many suds and may extend rinsing or reduce spin speed. Full guide →Let the suds reduction routine finish, then use only HE detergent and reduce the detergent amount on the next load.Often a home checkOfb / uL / F0 E5The washer detected an out of balance load and may slow or pause the spin cycle.Pause the cycle, redistribute the load around the basket or drum, and restart with fewer bulky items together.Often a home checkoLThe washer detected an overloaded basket or a load that is too large to move correctly.Remove several items, close the lid, and restart with a smaller load.Often a home checklidThe lid was left open long enough for the washer to stop or drain.Close the lid and restart the cycle if the washer has already drained.Often a home checkHCThe hot and cold inlet hoses are reversed.Turn off the water, unplug the washer, and reconnect the hot and cold inlet hoses to the correct valves.Often a home checkF0 E7 / F0 E1 / rLThe washer detected clothing or a load during the Clean Washer cycle.Remove all items from the basket or drum, then restart the Clean Washer cycle only when the washer is empty.Often a home checkCLThis is a reminder to run the Clean Washer cycle, not a failed part by itself. Full guide →Run the Clean Washer cycle when convenient and follow the model manual if the reminder does not clear after cleaning.Often a home checkdETThe washer does not detect the bulk detergent cartridge on models with that dispenser.Insert the detergent cartridge fully, close the dispenser drawer, or ignore the message if the model is being used with single load detergent.Often a home checkDetergent LowThe bulk detergent level is low on models with automatic detergent dispensing.Refill the bulk detergent dispenser and make sure the dispenser drawer is closed.Often a home checkIntThe cycle was paused or canceled and the washer is finishing a drain and stop routine.Wait for the washer to stop spinning and draining, then press Pause or Cancel twice and Power once or unplug for 5 minutes.Often a home check1h to 12hA delay start countdown is active, from 1 hour through 12 hours depending on the selected delay.Cancel Delay Start if you want the washer to begin now.Often a home checkPFThe washer lost power during a cycle.Press Start to continue if the model allows it, or press Cancel and restart the cycle.Often a home checkErrThe washer rejected a command, often because the door is open or a cycle change was attempted while running.Close the door fully or wait until the running cycle reaches a point where selections can be changed.Often a home checkF1 E1The main control detected an internal control fault or memory fault.Reset the control by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes; if the code returns, a technician should diagnose the main control.Usually a technicianF1 E2The motor control detected an internal fault, repeated reset, over voltage, under voltage, or over current condition, depending on model.Needs a technician because the motor control circuit or drive electronics must be tested safely.Usually a technicianF2 E1A user interface button may be stuck or held too long.Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and check that no console button is stuck down.Often a home checkF2 E2The user interface is disconnected or not communicating correctly on models that use this code.Needs a technician because the console or user interface connection must be checked inside the machine.Usually a technicianF2 E3The main control and user interface do not match, or the control sees an unsupported cycle or corrupted cycle data.Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and restart; if the code returns, a technician should confirm the installed control and console match the model.Usually a technicianF3 E1The washer detected a water level or pressure sensing failure.Needs a technician because the water level pressure sensor circuit and pressure hose path must be checked inside the washer.Usually a technicianF3 E2On many Maytag front load models this is a water temperature sensor fault; check the model tech sheet for the exact meaning.Needs a technician because the model tech sheet should identify the circuit before any internal testing is done.Usually a technicianF3 E3The washer detected an inlet water temperature sensing fault on models that use this code.Needs a technician because the inlet temperature sensor or related wiring must be diagnosed inside the washer.Usually a technicianF3 E6The washer detected an accelerometer or orientation sensing fault on models that use this code.Needs a technician because the internal motion or orientation sensor is part of the control system.Usually a technicianF0 E4The washer sensed water that was too hot, often during a rinse or when hoses are reversed.Unplug the washer, turn off both water valves, and verify the inlet hoses are not reversed.Often a home checkF4 E1The washer did not detect the expected wash heater temperature rise or heater relay feedback on models with this system.Needs a technician because the wash heater circuit and control feedback must be tested safely.Usually a technicianF4 E4The washer detected a vent fan or dry blower motor fault on models with that feature.Needs a technician because the vent fan, dry blower, or related circuit must be tested inside the appliance.Usually a technicianF5 E1The door or lid switch signal does not match the expected locked or closed position.Unplug the washer and check for clothing or packing material preventing the door or lid switch from closing.Often a home checkF5 E4 / drThe washer has run consecutive cycles without detecting that the door or lid was opened.Open and close the door or lid, then restart the cycle.Often a home checkF6 E1 / F6 E2 / F6 E3A control communication path failed between the console, main control, or motor control, depending on model.Unplug the washer for 5 minutes and restart; if the code returns, a technician should diagnose the control communication circuit.Usually a technicianF7 E1The control cannot read motor speed correctly or the motor cannot reach the selected cycle speed.Remove some items, make sure a front load washer's shipping bolts have been removed, and restart after a 5 minute power reset.Often a home checkF7 E2The motor control detected an internal drive fault on models that use this code.Needs a technician because the motor control or drive module has detected an internal fault.Usually a technicianF7 E3The basket stayed engaged during wash on models with a shifter system.Needs a technician because the basket drive and shifter system must be checked inside the washer.Usually a technicianF7 E4The washer could not re-engage the basket correctly on models with a shifter system.Needs a technician because the basket re-engagement and drive system must be checked inside the washer.Usually a technicianF7 E6The control detected a motor circuit fault.Needs a technician because the motor circuit must be tested with the washer unplugged and disassembled.Usually a technicianF7 E7The motor could not reach the target RPM.Unplug the washer and check for an overloaded basket or a visible item jammed between the basket and tub opening.Usually a technicianF7 E8The motor drive module detected an over temperature condition.Let the washer cool, reduce the load size, and if the code returns have a technician diagnose the drive system.Usually a technicianF7 E9The control detected a locked rotor or a motor that is not moving when driven.Unplug the washer and remove any visible obstruction at the basket opening; if the basket will not move normally, use a technician.Usually a technicianF7 EA / F7 E10The motor control detected lost motor phase or lost phase operation.Needs a technician because the motor phase circuit and drive wiring must be tested inside the washer.Usually a technicianF7 EC / F7 E12The motor drive module detected a motor overload fault on models that use this code.Needs a technician because the motor drive module reported an overload fault and the drive system must be tested.Usually a technicianF8 E2The dispenser system did not move or sense the expected dispenser position on select models.Unplug the washer, remove and clean the detergent drawer or cartridge area if accessible without tools, then restart.Often a home checkF8 E3The washer detected an overflow or flood condition.Unplug the washer, turn off both water valves, and have a technician diagnose it if water is in the tub or the code returns.Usually a technicianF20 / FHOlder front load models use these codes for no water or insufficient incoming water.Unplug the washer and confirm both water valves are open and hoses are not kinked.Often a home checkF8 E4The flow meter did not detect the expected water entering the washer during diagnostics on models with this part.Needs a technician if water supply and hoses are normal because the flow meter or inlet sensing circuit must be checked.Usually a technicianF8 E6Depending on model, the washer detected a water hazard condition or that the lid was opened during a fill related routine.Close the lid, let the washer finish any drain routine, and power reset the washer for 5 minutes.Often a home checkF9 E9The control detected wrong incoming voltage on models that use this code.Needs a technician because the washer is seeing an incorrect supply voltage condition.Usually a technicianFC E0 / FCE0The connected feature module or WiFi function reported an error.Restart the washer and router connection process if the model has connected features.Often a home checkFdThe washer has entered or completed a factory default reset routine on models that show this code.Use the factory default button sequence only if your manual lists it for your model.Often a home check-:--The cycle selector is pointing to a position with no assigned cycle on some front load models.Use the cycle knob to choose a valid cycle and press Start again.Often a home checkDon't see your symptom?
Describe it on the phone. The company on the other end works on these every day and will know what to ask.
Other Maytag washer problems
Maytag washer not spinning: what to check first
A Maytag washer not spinning means the machine either stopped the spin for safety or the drive system can't turn the…
Read the fix →Maytag washer not draining: what it means and what to check
A Maytag washer not draining means water isn't leaving the tub fast enough, so the control may stop before spin or show…
Read the fix →Maytag washer won't start: what to check first
A Maytag washer that won't start is usually missing one of the signals it needs: power, a Start command, or a locked lid…
Read the fix →Maytag washer not filling with water: what to check first
A Maytag washer not filling with water is often being starved by the home water supply, blocked at the inlet screens, or…
Read the fix →Maytag washer leaking from bottom: what it means and what to check
A Maytag washer leaking from the bottom means water is escaping from a fill hose, drain hose, drain pump, tub seal,…
Read the fix →Maytag washer lid lock reset not working: what to check
If a Maytag washer lid lock reset isn't working, the washer still isn't getting a valid closed-and-locked signal, so it…
Read the fix →Common questions about appliance repair
How do I clear a Maytag washer code?
Use the button sequence your model supports, then unplug the washer for 5 minutes if the display does not clear. If the same code returns, the control is seeing an active fault.
Why does a code come back after I reset it?
A reset only clears the display. The washer will set the code again if it still detects slow fill, slow drain, a lock problem, too many suds, or a failed sensor.
Do older and newer Maytag washers use the same codes?
No. Bravos models may show LF, Ld, uL, oL, dL, and dU, while newer models often use F and E codes such as F8 E1 or F9 E1.
Are LoC, CL, Int, and 1h faults?
Usually no. They are status messages for control lock, clean washer reminder, an interrupted cycle, or a delay countdown.
Still showing the problem after the checks?
Call and describe what you tried. You'll be connected with an independent repair company near you.